Amidst the new releases and innovations, Watches & Wonders signaled a few notable changes across the watch industry. This year highlighted evolutionary trends, rather than a revolutionary shift in the industry.

Contrary to popular belief, collecting has never been about numbers; it’s about cultivating a deep love and relationship with the objects themselves. I’ve met collectors who couldn’t tell the difference between a calendar in a chronograph but have owned many of each, and I’ve met collectors who own a G-Shock but could explain in depth movement details about Patek Minute Repeater movements. It’s a spectrum, appreciate what you have and what you know.

I have often said that watches are the ultimate form of self-expression. At six years old, when I saw a contemporary of my father's wearing a yellow-dial dive watch on a yellow strap, it stood out because it was so different from regular old boring finance-guy attire (read: a gold Rolex). When I saw that watch, I learned that watches are a way to tell others something about you. And for me, that has made watches, and the people behind them, fascinating.

My piece, The Opportunity for Watchmakers, focused on how smartwatches provide a seamless user experience. As an industry, it is our responsibility to educate first-time buyers and seasoned collectors about how to take care of their mechanical watches, and ensure they know when, where, and how to get their watch serviced.

Today I welcome URWERK Co-founder and head of design at URWERK, Martin Frei. Martin is a wealth of knowledge and philosophical thinking and at the roots of URWERK. He has designed URWERK’s watches with the human and collector at the center of the designs. He is fascinating and full of stories about the design and development of URWERK and the design language over the years. 

Something Benoît Mintiens said in our recent interview on my podcast Forward Momentum, really stood out to me. I asked him whether he felt a pull to protect the craft of watchmaking. His response floored me.

URWERK have a new “Lighstpeed” edition of their venerable UR-100 series, building on an incredibly popular URWERK model that has not only been a commercial success for URWERK, but has allowed them to lower their price point to offer a more attainable version of their incredible watches and satellite time-telling complication.

Ask any watch collector what they wish they knew when they started collecting and you’ll likely get a laundry list of advice. Watch collecting isn’t necessarily intuitive: there’s a required understanding of the brands, understanding the luxury conglomerates that own brands, the dynamics of vintage watches versus modern watches, the difference between independent watchmaking and microbrands, and understanding the retail environment.

At best, it’s a confusing landscape.

While hindsight is 20/20, there are three key lessons based on this that I have learned with time.

I’ve thought a lot about where watch collecting is going in 2024. It was clear speaking to collectors, retailers, and brands that things are changing. The shift towards more purposeful collections, emphasis on significance, and the rise of independent watchmaking are becoming clear themes for collecting in 2024. What do you see as a clear theme for watch collecting in 2024, or more specifically for your personal collection?

Coming up we have the last auctions of the year in New York. Christie’s kicks off the New York auction week on December 5th, followed by Sotheby’s Important Watches on December 7th, with the Phillips The New York Watch Auction: NINE bringing the week to a close on December 9th and 10th.

The end of the auction season is always punctuated by auctions in Hong Kong, and New York. With the end of Dubai Watch Week, the remaining two watch industry events of the year are these auctions. Taking place on November 24-26, Phillips and Christie’s will have auctions in Hong Kong, and on December 7th Sotheby’s New York Auction will take place, and Phillips on December 9th. Let’s have a closer look at the lots on offer in Hong Kong.

The first time I saw HM11 Maximilian Büsser had a sly grin on his face when he mentioned this horological machine took inspiration from architecture. Immediately my head traveled back to his instagram account to a period where he was posting nothing but post-modern architecture from the 1960’s. And in my head these images stood out; I knew something was afoot in the brain of Maximilian Büsser.

Have you ever wondered what it takes to be a master watchmaker and to preserve the legacy of iconic watchmakers? Or have you ever wondered what it takes to build a watch brand? In this episode, my guest Luca Soprana shares his journey into the world of independent watchmaking and his mission to protect the legacy of Derek Pratt.

What’s happening, watch fans? It was my privilege to host my friend and CEO of Alex Crown, JDR, on the Forward Momentum Podcast. Join us for an insightful conversation about JDR’s passion for watches, independent watchmaking, and the intersection of the sartorial world and the watch world. With an unwavering passion for horology, JDR's influence extends far beyond the realm of collecting - he's a driving force in the watchmaking industry.

In this episode, we embark on a journey through the art of watchmaking, exploring the emotional connections that tie generations of JDR's family together through watches, and where craftsmanship meets style.

JDR’s insights promise to ignite your horological curiosity. Get ready for an episode packed with hidden stories that unveil the captivating world of watches.

Tune in now and let JDR's passion for horology inspire your collecting journey.

Well, this week’s post was supposed to be about OnlyWatch. What’s coming, what to look forward to, what will change for the production versions of these watches, but that is all for naught at the moment. After questions were raised about OnlyWatch, how the funds raised from the auction were being used, and calls for greater transparency, the Monegasque Association Against Myopathies (the group of families affected by Duchenne Muscular Dystrophywho puts on OnlyWatch) was left with little choice but to postpone the auction.

Becoming an independent watchmaker isn't just about putting a name on a dial, it's about the journey to attaining the skills, knowledge, and craftsmanship necessary to pursue a career as an independent watchmaker.

Learn about the ways to become an independent watchmaker in Part V on my series on Defining Independence.

Ever wondered what drives watch collectors and the allure of independent watchmaking? In this episode, I star as our featured guest with special guest host JDR, the CEO of Alex Crown. JDR and I embark on a journey through the intricate realm of watch collecting, specifically focusing on independent watchmakers. My journey into this world began with a simple Swatch watch, and my fascination grew over time. We discuss the uniqueness of independent watchmakers, their commitment to preserving tradition, and their ability to create a deeper connection with collectors through their stories.

Geneva Watch Days 2023 marked Ressence’s inaugural participation as a brand, and my first interaction with the brand. Exploring their approach to watchmaking by removing elements like the crown and hands represents a new approach to watchmaking, resulting in a timepiece unlike any other. Founder & CEO Benoît Mintiens wanted to redesign the watch from the ground up. The Type 3 EE Eucalyptus, with its captivating green hue, brings a fresh perspective to the otherwise monochromatic Type 3 lineup. Its organic design and seamless fit on the wrist make it a great daily wearing watch.

Harry Winston, renowned for its exquisite jewelry and precious gems, embarked on a transformative journey in 1998 to breathe new life into its watch department. The Opus Project came to define an era of independent watchmaking. It pushed the boundaries of what most people thought possible for a traditional brand like Harry Winston and was completely unexpected. It was an innovative decision that spurred creativity, collaborations, and increased the visibility of independent watchmakers and shed light on the watchmakers, and the power of collaboration in an industry that remained resistant to change.

Urwerk has always blended deeply philosophical thinking with horological brilliance. The UR100V Stardust, which debuted at Geneva Watch Days, redefines elegance with gem-setting that adds a uniquely tactile sensation while combining natural beauty with the avant-garde watchmaking of Urwerk. We also got to see the Urwerk Space-Time Blade, presented for Only Watch this year. The Space-Time Blade is a fusion of all things Urwerk, combining craftsmanship and technology, and seamlessly blending in sci-fi elements that help everyone to dream. I am excited about where these projects are leading Urwerk after they celebrated their 25th anniversary!